A Short trip to Dharamkot (Mcleodganj)- Family Pizzeria and Homestay - Mystery Revealed!

                                     Photo Courtesy - Shyam Sunder Agarwal (Lala)

We, a group of three buddies (I, Amit and Shyam), were eager to utilize the long weekend of Holi in a place away from the hustle-bustle of commercialized destination.We heard a lot about the Pizza's in Family Pizzeria (FP) and its location's Serenity from many Himachali's as well as from some of my Israeli friend's who had visited there earlier. The place is not easily accessible by regular mode of transportation and this inaccessibility factor saved Dharamkot from general tourist or technically Psychocentric tourist. Dharamkot's remoteness, perfectly suited our requirement.

 Family Pizzeria, located just 3 km hiking distance away from Mcleodganj. You can take an auto from Mcleodganj to the entry point of Dharamkot (2 Km) for approx INR 60 and the rest of the distance have to be covered walking (but if you are a first timer then I will strongly recommend you, enjoy the nature's trail by hiking from Mcleodganj to FP). We reached Dharamkot a day before Holi in the evening. When we reached FP it was quite late, nearby area was silent and peaceful, distant snow-capped mountains was glittering under the milky moonlight. We took a room in FP for INR 500 per night (They charged extra 100 for extra person). The room was spacious as per the budget with attached bathroom. But we were more interested in the Homemade Pizza made in the Wooden Oven. That night we were not lucky enough to taste a bit of the famous home made French pizza. So, we three spend rest of the night enjoying Trans music in a nearby cafe (there are many local small shacks/ coffee parlors in Dharamkot where you can enjoy music and attain "Shanti- Shanti") with local Himachali food & wine (Wonder wine- shops are available in Mcleordganj).

                   How a local tribal Himachali became a French Pizza Expert?

Next day morning first thing we did was to order a pizza and our order was delivered by an old man with a big smile on his face, we were very happy to see such a facial gesture. After having the pizza (it was amazingly delicious and tasted just like a real French homemade pizza with a thick layer of toppings which is hard to see even in commercial pizza joints in Indian cities) our taste buds were really very satisfied and happiness multiplied manifold and it was a matter of surprise for us to experience such a work of culinary in a remote Himalayan village of Dauladhar range . So, we wanted to personally thank the owner of FP. When we inquired for the owner from the waiter he replied: "Beta mein hi yaha ka malik hoon" (Son.... I am the owner of this place). He was really a sweet, humble and polite gentleman.
With this reply, our eagerness rolled out with series of questions which revealed the mystery behind the availability of real French Pizza in such a remote village of Himachal Pradesh.

                                                      View from our room in Familly Pizzaria (Dharamkot)
Q :       Uncle!!! Who makes the Pizzas? Have you hired any professional cook?

A:        Here in Pizzarium, we all family members work together, which includes my son, daughter, daughter- in law, my grandson, my sister and me. We cook, serve, and Clean.

Q:       How you and your family learned to make such a delicious pizzas?

A:       Beta!! After the slate mines in this region were closed in 1982, I lost my daily basis labor job. So, I hired a shop in Bhagsu Nag (1.5 Km from Dharamkot) and started a tea and pakora(Indian snack) shop for my    family's survival  and everything was going as usual until one fine day a foreigner approached me in my shop and asked me that he want to make pizza in my shop to sell.He was ready to share the profit with me. I was pretty interested in his offer and took a chance. He purchased Maida (wheat flour) and all the required ingredients (Uncle paid for all the ingredients) for making Pizza mean while I made the oven as per his requirements.Then he started making Pizzas in my shop. He taught me to make Pizzas and Cakes. All went well for next one month until suddenly one day I saw the shop was closed and he was loitering outside. When I asked him why you have closed the shop today during the Maata ka Mela (local religious festival)? which is a high time to earn? He replied I am done here and leaving for Goa.If you want to continue then you carry on making Pizza. I asked him" How can I? He replied "I  have taught you and your boy (staff) the recipe and preparation and I am sure you can take care of it " In the winter's (off season in hill stations) I will go to Goa and in summer's I will return. From then the Journey of making Pizza started in my family. 

                                Family Member making Pizza in the wooden oven (Photo Credit: Shyam)

Q:     Your partner was from which country?

A      France.

Q:    Before you started to prepare Pizza in Dharamkot anybody else did it here?

A      Leave Dharamkot!!! We were the sole Pizza maker in the whole of Himachal... This I don't say....all the foreigner whoever comes here tells us this- Nowhere in Himachal such a pizza is
served. Even today Dominos and Pizza Hut is available in Dharamshala and Mcleordganj
respectively but my shop pulls more visitor to this place. Owner's of these large Pizza joint
franchises loves to enjoy Pizza in my place with their family though they have their own Pizza
shops (While speaking he gives us a cute smile).

                                              

Q:     Did Pizza have any effect on your life?

A:    Yes of course! It changed my life......Now my position in the society is respected. I have a proper shelter for my family. I had purchased 10-12 acre of land, car, rented three shops in Bhagshu and satisfied my families basic necessities. Made this restaurant for my younger son. Constructed few rooms to cater travelers and earn little more from the rooms. I asked my children to work here and earn instead of working outside. I have divided all these revenue sources among my two sons so that integrity in the family is always there.

Q:      How old are you?

A:   I am 65 now and enjoying a retired life. I started my journey with Pizza more than 30 years before. I am married for last 46 years.

Q:    Do you have any expansion plans?

A:  No!!  Pizza has given me a good life. I am happy with what I have. I don't want anything more. Too much money brings too much tension, end of the day one had to eat few chapatis and dal to survive. It doesn't matter how much money you earn you cannot feed yourself money. When I was born even my grandfather didn't own a house but now I own two... Now !!what more I can expect from life.....

Q:    Uncle the last question.....What is your name?

A:  He smiles and answer's ......Kishan Chand

He ended the conversation with a quote "Time teaches everything to a person ..time is the best teacher."

Note: Price of the  Pizzas ranges between 250 to 450 INR (rates are as on 30th July 2017)

Distance from Dharamkot

Dharamshala - 15km, and 6km via Khara danga Marg
Kangra            -32km- 

Mcleordganj   -  2.5km

Bhagsunath    -  1.5km via shortcut through FP(Hiking route)
Triund            - 5km (Trekking Route)

How to reach 

By Road

# Regular bus and share cab ferry from Dharamsala to Mcleodganj (INR 10 per person) till the sunset and from there either you can hike or hire an auto (tuk-tuk) till Dharamkot entry point (INR 60).

# From Delhi regular HRTC bus ferry for Dharamshala and Mcleordganj.

By Rail

# Pathankot Cantt(PTKC) and Pathankot(PTK) are the nearest railheads to Dharamkot (92.5Km) (Broad gauge railway)

#if you want to experience Himalaya (Kangra Valley)in a Toy Train (narrow Gauge) then board one from Pathankot to Kangra (4hrs). Kangra to Dharamkot - 32km/1hr 

By Air

# Daily three Flights fly two and fro from Delhi to Gaggal Airport (20.5.Kms from Dharamkot)

Where to stay?

# Along with Family Pizzeria, there are many homestays available around the vicinity. Rent per day ranges from INR 300 to INR 600 depending on the length of your stay and the season when you are visiting. 

# If you are planning to stay there for months then you can even hire rooms monthly basis. It will range from INR 4000 to INR 9000 (approximately)

Best time to Visit

# Dharamkot is a year-round destination. The summers, i.e March to June, are pleasant and perfect for trekking and sightseeing tours.

# Dharamkot receives heavy rainfall from mid-July to August, at times accompanied by landslides. So, people tend to avoid visiting Dharamkot during these months. However, the post-monsoon lush green surroundings make September and October in Dharamkot very beautiful.

Winters, i.e November to February, are cold in Dharamkot. 

Things to Do

1# Visit Tsuglagkhang Complex (Mcleordganj): 

Visit Namgyal Monastery and the headquarter of controversial Tibetian government in exile, it just at 2km walking distance.This monastery is build by the 14th Dalai Lama. Here you can experience Tibetan following   Namgyal Tantric sect of Buddhism. Monks practice religious rituals in the inner courtyard of the complex, where you can feel the positive vibes. 

2# Enjoy Hiking and Camping:

If you are not interested in conventional sightseeing than you came to the right place. For the allocentric tourist or adventure lovers there are lot of options. You can go for trekking, camping, and hiking on the surrounding trails. Of these, the Triund trek via Indrahar Pass is the most famous. Except the cold and freezing breeze, nothing is going to disappoint you.

3# Attain inner peace and soul relaxation through Spa therapies , Yoga and Meditation sessions:

Dharamkot is known as a hub for various Ayurvedic healing therapy , Spa and Meditional centers.These centers offers varios treatment and sessions for the complete rejuvenation of body and mind. They have professional experts  and doctors who offer the best in class treatments. Out of many available centers some of the popular once are Tushita Meditation Centre and Himachal Vipassana Centre.

There are many yoga learning centers that offer meditation and yoga session for travelers. These kind of activities are popular among the solo and spiritual travelers.Dharamkot attracts travelers who seek inner peace and relaxation for the soul.

4#Became a Tibetian cook:

If you have a special interest in culinary. Then you came to the right place. There are several local tibetian  household who offers Tibetian cooking classes, out of them Sangey's Kitchen and Lhamo's Kitchen are well known for offer cooking classes of authentic Tibetian cuisine for travellers. And to be very honest, this is one of the most interesting things to do in Dharamkot and Mcleordganj area. They are specialist in preparing momos, soups, thukpa, noodles and breads.

Note: Opening Hours: 7am-9pm

5#Star Gazing:

At this high altitude, you have the best opportunity to experience the clear sky filled with millions of glittering dots(stars) above the snowcapped peaks.While Looking at the sky you can feel that time has stopped ticking and in my opinion, one should not miss this opportunity.

6#Feel the musical vibes and let your soul flow with the tune:

Mcleordganj, Dharamkot, and Bhagsu are known for the cool and funky cafes where you can smoke joints and feel the musical vibes around while enjoying a sip of coffee or eating thukpa or steaming hot momos and I am sure most of the solo travelers would love to experience this.

Some of the cafes are:

• Shiva's Cafe (Near Bhagsu waterfall)
• Hummingbird Cafe
• Seed Cafe
• Tibet Quality cafe
• Lobsang Four Season Cafe
• Jimmy's Italian Kitchen 
• Peace Cafe
• Cafe Budha
• Lung Ta

Special thanks to Amit and Shyam.Without their company, I could not have imagined exploring this great experience!!!!